The most common type is the graphite and this is the only one that you should concern yourself with for now. This material is much lighter than the fiberglass, and also casts line much better. When it comes to fly rods, you usually get what you pay for. If you see a rod for $30.00, and it says graphite, you can bet that it is mostly fiberglass. This doesn't mean that you have to place your next rod on the easy payment plan because I've seen true graphite rods at L.L. Beans for about $70.00 and better yet try the outlet store on Congress St in Portland since they may have the same rod for much less. This true graphite rod will be generation 1 or 2 graphite with the lower end reel seat, stripping and snake guides, and cork grip and rod tippet.
The weight of a fly rod is the manufacturers suggestion as to which line weight will cast the best on that rod. Therefore, a #5 weight rod will require a #5 weight fly line. Rods will usually have a marking on the blank near the grip that tells the user of the line weight requirement. This is the area that will also give you the length of the rod, the number of pieces the rod is made up of, weight, the material the rod is constructed with and sometimes even the physical weight of the rod. It should look something like this; 8'6"5, or 865. Both of these designate an eight and a half foot rod, which is designed to use number five weight fly line.
Action
If you cast several or even more fly rods, each having the very same weight, length, reel, backing, lines, leader, tippet material, and even the same fly, you'll be amazed at how differently some rods react to the same casting style. This large difference is due to the fact that all rods are not equal in terms of casting properties and this reason is called the rods action. This term (Action) is defined as the relative resistance to bending as you move down the length of a particular rod. Fast Action rods tend to resist bending sooner than the Slow Action rods.
These Slow Action rods tend to be somewhat whippy and don't cast the line as far as the Fast Action rods. Fast Action rods will generate higher line speeds, which make them easier to cast into the wind and for longer distances. Between the two extremes, there are the Medium Action rods. You really need to cast any rod to determine if that rods action will suit your style of casting.
Rod Sense
Remember that you don't cast the fly rod but rather the fly line. A fly rod is simply a lever or extension of your arm. It is possible to cast a fly line without any rod at all, but not for very long. Fly rods are actually machines or tools that allow you to cast the fly line very comfortably even when casting big rods on salt water for extended periods of time. When using a fly rod, the purpose is to present an imitation to the fish with as little effort as possible. The fly should attract the fish's interest and not arrive in a manner that frightens the very fish you would like to catch. Each rod weight is designed to cast a particular line, which can deliver a certain weight fly to the holding area or feeding lie. In short, you cast the line and the fly just goes along for the ride.
When the fly is too heavy for the line, the line will sag and the cast ends up being somewhat poor. The size of the fly you want to use determines the size of the line that will properly cast it. Does that mean that you require a different rod for every size fly in your box? No! There are differences of opinion of course, but if you want a rod primarily for fishing rivers and streams, a #5-weight will do just fine. If your interests lie primarily in lakes and ponds, then I would suggest a #6 or #7-weight and the preferred length would be 9 foot, since all the casts will be made from a watercraft and the situation will require longer casts. Let's say that your tastes lean towards the more sophisticated and your going to fish the clear spring creeks and small streams with very small dry flies, a #3-weight rod and line would produce a much more delicate presentation. Now, how about being real brave and let's go for the large salmon or even the salt water stripped bass, well then, we need to go even bigger and that calls for a #8 or #9-weight outfit.
Fly Line 101
This is the nuts and bolts of fly-fishing. There are different lines to use for different fishing techniques and can be from 35 feet to some 150 feet in length. Most, fly lines are 90 feet in length with most of the weight of the line located in the first 30 feet. Remember that when you cast, it's the fly line you're throwing and not the imitation, which is on the end of the tippet. Your imitation is just going along for the ride and the ride, is provided by the fly line.
Think of it this way, in bait casting, the weight of the bait and associated heavy sinkers that are used are propelled forward by the action of the casting rod. This rod is throwing the weighted end, which in turn will pull the much thinner and lighter monofilament line out as the leading weighted lure is projected towards the intended target. Well, the same is true for the fly rod with the only difference being that the rod is casting the heavy fly line instead of a weighted lure.
These fly lines can be basically broken down into two types. Floating Lines and Sinking Lines. The Floating Lines are used for techniques that are require the fly to be on or just below the waters surface and the Sinking Lines are used for the below surface and bottom fishing techniques. Unless you plan to become a purist with a Floating Imitation or one that prefers the flexibility of Sinking Designs, you will have to purchase one of each category. There are, however, some anglers who utilize a Floating Line with Sinking Imitations, and in certain circumstances, this works very well. But, when the fish are holding in the deeper parts of a particular pool or you are fishing the deeper parts of a lake or pond, you will need to get the fly to the fish, which in those cases can only be done with sinking Line. To add to the confusion, some lines can come in one of five different tapers. Just what you wanted to hear, I'm sure. The when, where, what and how will be covered later, so don't dismay.
Before we get into the specifics of type and weight, let's consider the basic qualities that a fly line must have to perform well. The fly itself is virtually weightless, so the line must provide the casting weight. In all forms of casting, performance is hindered greatly when the cast lure is either too heavy or too light. The same is true in a fly rod with line that is either too heavy or too light. The weight of the line must match the rod in order to perform correctly. If the fly line is too heavy or light, the line will not properly load the rod for a proper cast. If the line is too heavy, the rod will be over-loaded and the resultant cast very poor. The extra weight will reduce the rods ability to straighten and propel the line properly. The opposite problem would exist if the line were too light for the rod. The light line will not properly load the rod and the resultant cast will be poor and have little distance.
To those anglers that take their fly lines of the reels for winter storage. Here's a neat system that will mark each line in a way that will identify the weight and taper of the removed fly line. By using a permanent marker, mark one narrow band for each weight up to 4 (1 thru 4 would indicate that weight of fly line).
Now, mark a much wider band to indicate the 5 weight fly line. This way you can indicate the 6, 7, 8 & 9 weight lines by using the wider 5 weight band with 1, 2, 3 or 4 narrow bands. Now to indicate a weight forward taper place the wide 5 band on the tip side of the code.
A well designed fly line, regardless of the weight classification, will not sag, during the casting stoke and will turn over smoothly, keeping its weight off the water until the cast is completed and the fly is gently deposited on the waters surface.
In order to accomplish this feat, the weight of the line has to be distributed over a shape that will maintain its velocity against the resistance of the air for the greatest amount of time possible. That shape is called, the Casting Loop.
Line Weight
Fly lines are manufactured in many different weights. The classification is determined by the weight of the first 30 feet of line. The American Fishing Tackle Manufacturing Association (AFTMA), rates these lines from 1 to 15. Fly rod manufacturers mark the recommended line weight directly on the rods butt end, in the area of the grip.
Line Taper
In addition to the line weight, fly lines are also classified by their shape and floating characteristics. The complete description of a typical line is contained in a three-element code. The first element, describes the lines Taper. The second element will tell you the fly lines weight and the third element will refer to the lines ability to either float or sink. So, with this new knowledge in hand, you have the following: The first element of the code refers to the lines shape or profile. There are three main categories.
1. Level (L)
2. Double Taper (DT)
3. Weight Forward (WF)
4. Combination (WF)
5. Triangle Tapered (TT)