Backing
Backing attaches the Fly-Line to the Reel. This backing accomplishes two things; first, it increases the diameter of the spool where the fly-line is wound. This added bulk will prevent tangles, which can be caused by the line being wound into very small circles and at the same time, allows the angler to have much more than 90 feet of line to play the fish. The second thing that the backing performs is to have added line below the fly-line, which when retrieved will result in more fly-line onto the reel with each revolution of the spool.
This backing is made out of Dacron and is similar in diameter to regular monofilament. It usually comes in 20 or 30-pound test. Twenty-pound test backing is the most common type used for fresh water fishing. The thirty-pound test backing is used for most of the salt-water applications.
The amount of backing you choose depends on the fighting characteristics of the fish your trying to catch. For a fish that doesn't bolt and try to get away or a fish that rarely runs such as, small pan fish, smaller trout, bass, or salmon, the proper amount of backing would be no more than 50 yards. The most common length of backing for fresh water applications is 100 yards. For fish that are known for long powerful runs, the need will be greater and you might consider 200 yards or even more. Now, it should be somewhat clear that not all reels will offer you the spool size necessary for the job. That's why the statement was made, that weight, length of the rod, the type of drag system on the reel and the size of the reel spool depends on the type of fishing being pursued.
Reels
The first thing to remember is that the reel needs to meet both the fly rod and the fishing situation your facing. By that, I mean that each rod has two distinct characteristics, one being the rods weight and the other being the rods length.
If your inclined to fish the smaller rivers and streams, you already know that the rods weight for that type of fishing is either a #4 or #5 weight and also the rods length should be between 8 feet or 8.5 feet in length with of course, the proper fly line weight to match the manufacturers suggested line requirements for that rod.
On the lake or pond, the recommended length and weight for the rod will change because the situation is different from the river or stream. The open water of these two bodies of water, demand a longer and heavier rod. Another characteristic that one might consider is the rods action. The firmer the rod the longer the cast and here on these bodies of water, casting distance can make the difference. These rods are in the #6 or #7 weight category and the length requirements range from 9 feet to 9.5 feet. Keep in mind that even these longer and heavier rods will still serve you well in the rivers and streams, if you realize the limitations of each application.
In all these fishing situations, the reel choice is quite simple. For one thing, you don't need the best or the biggest. Keep it simple and within your budget.
All you need is a simple die-cast reel frame with a click-and-pawl drag system. The spool can also be real simple with a standard arbor. These designs are basic and produce a reliable but inexpensive reel that is just fine for the type of fishing that your going to do. These are the most economically constructed reels and the click-and-pawl drag system will prevent free spooling and at the same time provide you with minimal drag control. Any additional drag required can be attained, by applying palm pressure directly to the reel spool.
Now let's consider going after the larger fish using the same rod and reel. The rod will do nicely but the reel will have to rest in a box because the reel requirements have changed. You will now require a reel that will hold much more line and has a much better drag system. The drag system increases the resistance applied against the fish and makes the fish tire more easily. These systems will also reduce the chance of having the fish break away by snapping your tippet. These better type systems are called Disc-Drag systems. These are reels that are usually Die-Cast construction with some Secondary Machining or they can be machined by computer controlled metal lathes that will cut a reel frame from one solid piece of aircraft grade aluminum bar-stock. (If that just sounded expensive, well you're darn right!)
These higher quality reels have a rugged frame for increased performance. The machined reels provide extremely tight tolerances and are better balanced for smooth spin at high revolutions. The computer-controlled lathes cut the bar-stock frames, which gives the reel precision fabrication within micro tolerances. These are the top-of-the-line and yes, you'll pay dearly for it.
When you want to land the medium-size fish on light tippets or the hard running fresh or salt water game fish that will give you a run for your money, you'll need the advantage of a Disc-Drag system. These drag systems will provide less resistance during the initial strike and protect the tippet from being snapped, resulting in a lost fish. After the fish is on and the run begins, the drag system will slowly apply the breaks to reduce the hard-run to a soft net or hand.
This same Disc-Drag system also offers the angler with a wide range of incremental drag adjustments. Some disc systems are altered to improve the resistance and at the same time reduce friction. One step above the standard disc-drag system is one called the Rolon Disc system. This system coats the disc with a special polymer and uses Teflon to lubricate the disc. One of the most dependable disc systems uses Cork applied to the disc to improve both the increased resistance and at the same time reduces the friction caused by the charging runs of very large fighting game fish. One of the latest systems to be developed relies on the disc being sealed inside a chamber filled with a high-density liquid. The disc has in fact been converted into an impeller, which acts as an automatic braking system. The centrifugal movement of the impeller creates line resistance and this resistance is in direct relation to the force created by the fish. The fish will actually control the amount of resistance placed against it by the reel and the angler never has to do a thing but keep the line tight. (Wow! What a concept, and we're talking huge bucks too.
Leader and Tippet
The single most important thing to know about a leader and tippet is that, 50% of a flies success is attributed to the leader and the tippet connection to the fly. The leaders main function is to reduce the visible connection of the fly line to the fly. The better the fish sees the fly and not the tippet end of the leader, the better your chances are to have the fish see the fly as a natural and take the offering.
Leader and Tippet material comes prepackaged in both monofilament and fluorocarbon. These two types are available in various sizes and lengths. These prepackaged leaders taper to a fine tippet thus restrict the visibility while offering flexibility for proper casting and the line strength necessary to land the fish. The middle of the leader is called the mid section. The narrow end of the leader is called the tippet and the thickest end on which the fly line is attached is called the butt end and the middle part of the leader is called the mid-section.
The fluorocarbon leaders have some very important advantages over the older (nylon) monofilament type leaders. Specific Gravity is the ratio of the density of a substance to the density of water.
Water has a specific gravity value of 1.0, thus materials that are more dense (heavier) than water will sink and those with less density than water will not readily sink. Even materials with specific gravities above 1.0 will not sink unless they can overcome the water's surface tension. That's why Monofilament with a specific gravity of only 1.1 refuses to sink much of the time. Fluorocarbon leaders, on the other hand, are almost twice as dense as water. With a specific gravity of 1.9, easily overcome the water's surface tension and sink just below the water's surface. The result is no surface squiggles and a leader and tippet material that's almost invisible to fish.
Another advantage of fluorocarbon over monofilament is the refractory index. Simply put, water has a refractory index of 1.33, and if your leader had that same refractory index it would be totally invisible in water. Fluorocarbon leaders have a refractory index of 1.42 - compared to an index value of 1.62 for nylon monofilament - making the fluorocarbon leaders as invisible in water as currant technology allows.
Still, another plus is that fluorocarbon is substantially more abrasion resistant than nylon monofilament. When it comes to extended use, fluorocarbon is completely unaffected by ultraviolet radiation. Nylon monofilament over time becomes weakened because of ultraviolet exposure.
Lastly and most important is that fluorocarbon material has a higher knot strength, both dry and wet.
Leader Sense
The make-up, style, length and taper of the fly fishing leader has been the subject of books, articles and debated over and over for many years and still, many anglers will disagree as to the best taper, length and material makeup of this strange and complicated piece of equipment. I'm not stating that leaders are simple. There not. But they shouldn't cause endless trouble and confusion, either. We just have to figure out how to have the darn thing do its job well---Straightening at the end of each casting cycle and dropping the fly onto the water with some degree of delicacy-is not a secret science.
Leaders come in two main varieties: hand-tied and knotless. Each type has its' own advantages and weaknesses. Since we are at the intermediate level, let's focus on the knotless, extruded leaders.
