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Maine Fly Fish

Little Green Machine Nymph SBS

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The Little Green Machine (LGM) is an incredibly productive mayfly nymph developed by Vince WIlcox. It is a staple pattern here in Montana and is a killer on any of the more technical fisheries, especially the Missouri.

This is not exactly like the original, I changed a couple tiny things up to my preferences but its basically the same bug.

Hook: daiichi 1560 or 1120 sizes 16-20

Bead: copper, tungsten or brass (3/32" size 16. 5/64" size 18, 1/16" size 20)

Thread: 8/0 uni camel (or similar)

Tail: pheasant tail fibers

Body: Hareline's stretch tubing brown size micro

Thorax: UV brown olive ice dubbing

Wingcase: copper mylar tinsel

Legs: white antron


1.Put bead on hook. Put hook in vise. Start thread at the eye. The original pattern called for a straight shank standard nymph hook, however I generally prefer the look and strength of the 1120. Because I tie this pattern with both brass and tungsten beads, I like to tie tungsten versions on the curved 1120 and brass ones with the 1560 allowing me to identify and separate them easily.


2. Tie in the stretch tubing right behind the eye, securing it with several wraps. firmly tug the tubing, stretching it and secure it with touching wraps down the hook shank. Angle the tubing away so it is secured on the far side of the hook shank.


3. Tie in a small clump (6-8 fibers) of pheasant tail on top of the hook shank.


4. Wrap thread up the hook shank in touching wraps securing the but ends of pheasant fibers to create a smooth underbody. Now wrap the tubing up the hook shank to a point just behind the bead. Unlike "D" Rib, the tubing lays flat. It still provides nice segmentation and as you can see has a nice sheen to it. I like tubing over "D" Rib because it compresses and stretches better, creating less bulk on smaller patterns like this.


5. Secure your flashback tinsel. I am using Uni Mylar which is blue on one side and copper on the other side.


6. Using figure 8 wraps tie in a small clump of white antron yarn behind the hook. This is a somewhat unconventional leg material but really makes sense. Some mayflies such as baetis dive underwater to deposit their eggs on the bottom, resulting in many submerged spinners. Midges can also have prominent white gills near the head. Regardless of the why, I think these prominent white fibers really make the pattern pop when it is completed and in the water. The fish think so too.


7. Dub a thorax with the ice dubbing slightly larger than your bead. It can be a little tricky wrapping the dubbing around the antron to make the thorax but you'll get used to it pretty quickly.


8. Pull the flashback over the thorax to the bead and tie it off. Trim excess, whip finish and cement. I prefer a dab of brush on zap a gap to my wraps to hold everything in. Trim antron stubs on either side to roughly the size of the bead.


Finished fly different angle

This pattern was originally distributed through Idylwilde Fly Company. For whatever reason, the gold beads they used were typically tarnished. Oftentimes I like a more 'natural' look and to replicate that I switched to a copper bead when tying my own. Now the pattern is sold through Umpqua Feather Merchants and has a brighter gold bead. With the amount of colors of stretch tubing and ice dubbing, you're pretty much limited to your imagination to tie this pattern in other colors, whether as naturals or attractors. I recently tied up a batch in purple for the coming season and think they'll do great.

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Thanks Tom, great looking fly for sure. I too like tying with Hareline Microtubing and I'll be tying some of these for the coming season. ;)B)

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Very nice Tom...boy you guys really like purple out there huh?! ;)

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